Choosing the Right Movement

The movement is the mechanical heart of a watch, but choosing one is not simply a matter of selecting the calibre with the longest power reserve or the highest specification. Reliability, dimensions, serviceability, availability of spare parts, supply continuity and compatibility with the design of the watch all matter just as much.

Several manufacturers have become reference points for independent brands. ETA remains one of the historic pillars of Swiss movement production, with a long industrial tradition and calibres known for reliability and widespread servicing. Sellita, founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1950, offers a broad range of Swiss mechanical movements and now controls the essential stages of design, manufacture and assembly in-house. Its current catalogue ranges from simple three-hand calibres to chronographs and more complex constructions.

Other makers offer different approaches. La Joux-Perret produces Swiss manufacture movements such as the G100, a 4 Hz automatic calibre with date and a 68-hour power reserve. Soprod, part of the Festina Group, has developed movements such as the Newton, conceived as a modern Swiss automatic calibre with particular attention to reliability. In Japan, Miyota has built its reputation on large-scale production, dependable supply and ease of servicing, with a range extending from basic calibres to its premium mechanical 90 Series.

There is therefore no universally “best” movement. The right choice depends on the watch being designed. A slim dress watch may place a premium on thickness and refinement; a sports watch may prioritise robustness; an independent brand must also consider long-term supply, spare parts and the ability to service the movement many years after the watch has been sold. A calibre should support the character of the watch rather than become its only selling point.

For Aureus, we chose the La Joux-Perret G100. Its 25.6 mm diameter and 4.45 mm thickness are compatible with the proportions we wanted, while its 68-hour power reserve offers a practical improvement for everyday use.

Most importantly, it suited the watch as a whole. The movement was not chosen to win a specification contest, but because it was the right mechanical foundation for Aureus.